What is 'CV' and why would I want these axles?
'CV' is short for 'Constant Velocity'. Essentially it means that power can be transmitted through the axle at large angles and at near-constant rotational speed. This is considered superior/modern technology to the 'U Joints' that are used in stock Datsun 1/2 shafts.
U joints have a long history of strong & reliable operation but suffer from two issues within our Datsun environment:
1) U-joints wear out and finding replacements is becoming difficult.
2) Due to the design of the U Joint, power is not transmitted through the axle at consistent speeds. This phenomena is exaggerated on lowered Datsuns where there are larger angles in the 1/2 shaft.
With a CV axle upgrade you can expect a noticeably smoother drivetrain and more efficient power transmission to the rear wheels (lower drivetrain loss).
The axles are designed to match stock 1/2 axle compression and expansion lengths. They are a 100% bolt-in solution, no additional modifications or purchases are required.
Are the axles brand new or refurbished?
All of our axles are brand new units, they are NOT refurbished. We have tested axles from many manufacturers, and only source the highest quality available.
How much power can the axles handle?
These are beefy units! The axle shaft diameter is slightly thicker than the Subaru STI axle.
However, the axles were originally designed for a vehicle with 225 lbs/ft of torque. We recommend sticking to that limit although it's possible there is spare capacity depending on tires and driving habits.
Can the axles be serviced?
These axles are design for a modern street vehicle so they offer the exceptional reliability you'd come to expect from your current daily driver. Should maintenance be required (re-grease or torn boot) they can easily be serviced. Please contact us for instructions and/or replacement boots.
What modifications are performed?
Modifications to the axles are exclusive to the housings on each end. The axle shafts are unaltered, they are NOT cut or re-splined.
Each axle is first taken apart and the grease is removed. The housings are modified and adapters are fastened as required. We've engineered the fastening process to meet or exceed the stock Datsun differential axle stubs.
The modified axles are then cleaned, painted, re-greased, boots are installed, and brand new boot straps are fastened.
We recommend having the axles installed by a professional mechanic. However, knowing many Datsun owners are DIYers, the following is a list of suggestions for installation.
- Before commencing work we strongly suggest you take the time to ensure your work is performed safely. Ensure your car is properly jacked up using a minimum of 2 jack stands (we apply a 3rd under the differential). Do NOT rely of your hydraulic jack as a sole means to lift the car. Safety glasses and good gloves are also a good recommendation
- After the rear of the car is safely elevated remove the 4 nuts and spring washers on each end of the stock 1/2 axle. The axle may be tight/stuck after the nuts are removed, take a hammer and gently tap the axle flanges to knock it loose. Once loose, compress the axle to pull it out. Repeat the process on the other side
- CV Installation: Your axles already come lightly greased to prevent any rusting on the flange surface (flattest possible mounting surface). Apply light grease to the shoulder bolts and/or bolt-holes on the flange.
- The smooth dome-shaped end of the axle is bolted to the wheel side, the 'tripod' side of the axle bolts to the diff side.
- Lift the axle into the car by elevating the dome-shaped first into the wheel well, above the drooped rear wheel if possible. Once the 'tripod' side of the hub has cleared the control arm, draw it towards the differential while lowering the dome side to be level with the hub flange. Lightly fasten one bolt & nut on each end, you may find it easier to pre-install one shoulder bolt on the dome side of the axle before lifting into the car.
- Once each end of the axle is loosely fastened, we recommend working on the 'tripod' / differential side as it's the trickiest. Start by adding a spring washer and thin 'jam' nut onto each bolt (tip: have the transmission in neutral and rotate the axle by hand to access each bolt). After a washer and nut is inserted onto each bolt, slowly start to tighten each nut a little bit at a time. The objective is to slowly and equally pull the axle flush to the stub's flange.
- Once the differential side is mounted proceed to the wheel/hub side. The shoulder bolts maybe be a little tight to clear the axle and hub flanges. We recommend using punch or beefy screwdriver to lightly tap the greased shoulder bolts through the two flanges. Fasten each shoulder bolt with a spring washer and nut. Depending on your rear brake setup (drum or disc) it may be easier to remove the rear wheel to access the outer nuts.
My axles were tight during installation
All of our axles are mounted on 3 different OEM Datsun jigs before sending out. Some jigs are a bit more snug than others. We attribute the variance to micro differences in D bolt alignment within the stub flange and/or condition of the bolts being used.
Some aftermarket R180 differential axle stubs can be *very* tight compared to stock.
To assist with installation we recommend you grease the bolts and/or holes. We also suggest that you slowly tighten each bolt, taking the time to rotate the axle frequently to tighten the subsequent bolts so that the axle is evenly 'pulled' towards the mounting flange.